Audemars Piguet’s RD#5: The “Jumbo” That Rewrites the Rulebook
When you’ve been in the game for a century and a half, you’re entitled to take a bow. But Audemars Piguet has never been about nostalgia — it’s always been about disruption. For its 150th anniversary, AP dropped what might just be its boldest Royal Oak yet: the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 (Ref. 26545XT.OO.1240XT.01).
Limited to just 150 pieces, this isn’t just another commemorative edition. It’s a statement piece — a technical and aesthetic milestone wrapped in 39mm of titanium.
A Case That Disappears, Until It Doesn’t
The 39 mm titanium case is everything you want from a Royal Oak: slim, architectural, and razor-sharp. At just 4 mm thick for the movement, the watch hugs the wrist with uncanny ease. It’s light — almost too light for what it houses — but the way the titanium and BMG (Bulk Metallic Glass) bracelet links articulate makes it feel alive on the wrist. Water resistance is a modest 20 meters, but let’s be honest: nobody’s swimming laps with one of 150 pieces in existence.
The Dial: Classic Codes, Modern Voice
The dial is a masterclass in balance. AP’s signature blue “Petite Tapisserie” pattern stretches beneath two subtle counters at 3 and 9 o’clock. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock is the star — a kinetic sculpture hovering without an upper bridge, as if suspended in open air. Around the periphery, a silver-grey inner bezel frames the scene, while 18-carat white gold “bathtub” hands and markers glow discreetly with luminescence. At 12 o’clock, the “Audemars Piguet” signature draws from historical documents, tying the cutting-edge back to the archives.
The Crown: A Clever Twist
The real party trick lies in the crown. Instead of the usual tug-and-twist, AP introduces a function selector: one click for winding, another for setting the time. No ambiguity, no delicate fiddling. It’s streamlined, intuitive — and yes, it has a whiff of Richard Mille’s selector system, but AP’s execution feels more integrated, less gadgety. Think precision gearbox over novelty lever.
The Heart: RD#5 Caliber Specs
Inside beats the Caliber 2957, a 379-part selfwinding movement that’s as elegant as it is complicated:
- Functions: Flying tourbillon, flyback chronograph, hours and minutes
- Jewels: 44
- Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Diameter: 31.4 mm
- Thickness: 4 mm
- Number of Parts: 379
It’s a lean machine, packing a flying tourbillon and a flyback chrono into a profile that still earns the “Extra-Thin” title.
Bracelet: A Familiar Friend, Reinvented
The integrated titanium bracelet flows seamlessly from the case, but the addition of BMG links (Bulk Metallic Glass, a high-tech alloy with remarkable hardness and sheen) gives it both durability and a unique tactility. The AP folding clasp clicks shut with the kind of finality that only decades of refinement can produce.
On the Wrist: A Paradox in Metal
Pick it up and your first thought is: this can’t possibly be as light as it looks. Then you strap it on and realize it doesn’t just vanish into your wrist — it molds to it. The ergonomics are near perfect, the weight distribution uncanny. Yet when you glance down and catch the shimmer of the tapisserie dial or the whirl of the tourbillon, the reality hits: you’re wearing a machine that shouldn’t even exist at this thickness.
Final Thoughts: The Best AP Yet?
It’s not hyperbole. This may be the most complete Audemars Piguet yet — not just technically dazzling, but also deeply wearable, thoughtfully designed, and true to the Royal Oak DNA. The RD#5 doesn’t scream for attention; it whispers with authority. It’s the kind of piece that makes even seasoned collectors pause.
Do I like it? No — I think it’s a triumph. This is a Royal Oak that honors the past while pulling the rest of us straight into the future. And with only 150 pieces, it’s destined to be talked about in collector circles for decades to come.
If you’re lucky enough to even hold one, savor it. It’s AP at its most audacious, distilled into 39 millimeters.
Check out more by clicking here.
