Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre III – Tradition Meets Teaching

The Naissance d’une Montre III represents something rare in modern watchmaking: a project designed as much to teach as to create. Developed by Ferdinand Berthoud under the guidance of the Time Æon Foundation, this initiative continues a series dedicated to keeping old-world, handcraft watchmaking alive—without CNC machines or automation, using only traditional tools and methods.

This third chapter builds on the spirit of its predecessors but channels it through the distinctive lens of Ferdinand Berthoud’s technical style—one that values function, clarity, and mechanical honesty.

When people ask me about my grail watches, the Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre III will always be in the running. It perfectly embodies what I love about horology — deep mechanical integrity, traditional craftsmanship, and a clear purpose behind every component. It’s not about flash or brand hype; it’s about preserving the art of true watchmaking in its purest form.

Design: A Classical Approach with Substance

At first glance, the Naissance d’une Montre III feels restrained. The 44.3mm case, made of ethical 18k white gold, is large but balanced. It’s topped with a domed sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides, ensuring clarity in every light. The caseback, secured by eight screws, reveals the movement through another sapphire crystal—also glareproof. Water resistance is 30 meters, enough for daily use, though clearly this isn’t a watch made for adventure.

The dial, crafted in 18k gold, features a circular satin finish and a smart division of information. The hours sit slightly off-center, marked by hand-engraved Roman numerals, while the minutes use Arabic numerals. A power-reserve indicator near 10 o’clock displays “0” and “1” engraved directly onto the mainplate, a nod to Berthoud’s precision-driven design language. Flame-blued steel hands add contrast and character without excess decoration.

It’s quietly elegant—precise, but not loud about it.

Movement: Calibre FB-BTC.FC

Inside sits the manual-winding calibre FB-BTC.FC, an in-house movement that embodies both technical complexity and traditional construction. It measures 35.8mm in diameter and 8.35mm thick, and it beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz). The 50-hour power reserve might sound modest, but it’s the quality of energy delivery that matters here.

That comes courtesy of the fusée-and-chain transmission, one of the oldest and most respected mechanisms in horology. The system compensates for the natural drop in torque as the mainspring unwinds—ensuring that the movement maintains constant force. It’s like a centuries-old mechanical solution to the problem of precision, executed here with remarkable finesse.

The calibre includes 747 components, with 477 devoted to the chain alone. There are 37 jewels, including 2 diamonds, and a stop-seconds function for exact setting. Time is shown with off-center hours and minutes, central seconds, and the power reserve display. The bi-metallic balance wheel improves thermal stability, while the entire movement has earned COSC chronometer certification, confirming that it performs as well as it looks.

A Lesson in Patience

The Naissance d’une Montre III isn’t about innovation in the usual sense. It’s about preserving a way of working that predates mass production—a reminder that excellence sometimes comes from restraint, not reinvention.

Ferdinand Berthoud’s approach here feels methodical, not theatrical. Everything has purpose: the engraving, the finish, the mechanics. The result is a watch that bridges the past and the future, not by mixing styles, but by carrying forward knowledge.

For collectors, it’s less about exclusivity—though it’s certainly rare—and more about the quiet satisfaction of owning a piece that teaches as much as it tells time.

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