Maurice Lacroix 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde: A Technical Tour de Force

The Swiss manufacturer unveils its 26th Masterpiece calibre in a bold skeletonized display that showcases the brand's retrograde expertise

Introduction

In an era where many Swiss watch brands chase the latest trends, Maurice Lacroix has remained steadfast in its commitment to retrograde complications—a technical specialty that has become synonymous with the Saignelégier-based manufacturer. The latest expression of this philosophy arrives in the form of the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde, a watch that represents both a return to the brand's roots and a bold step forward in horological display.

Launched as part of the permanent collection, this new timepiece combines Maurice Lacroix's signature retrograde weekday indication with a grand date complication, all presented through an unprecedented skeletonized dial that reveals the mechanical theater typically hidden beneath the surface.

Historical Context: The 1975 Collection and Maurice Lacroix's Heritage

To understand the significance of this new release, one must first appreciate the context of Maurice Lacroix's founding and the 1975 collection itself. The brand was established in 1975 by the Zurich-based Desco von Schulthess AG, initially as a private-label operation that would eventually evolve into a vertically integrated watchmaker with its own manufacturing capabilities in Saignelégier, in the Swiss Jura.

The 1975 collection, launched in 2025 to commemorate the brand's 50th anniversary, represents a deliberate shift toward more classical, elegant designs—a counterpoint to the sporty Aikon and Aikonic collections that have defined much of Maurice Lacroix's recent output. Where those collections embrace contemporary aesthetics and integrated bracelet designs, the 1975 line harks back to traditional dress watch proportions and styling cues.

Until now, the 1975 collection has consisted primarily of time-and-date models and GMT variants, all characterized by restrained elegance and vintage-inspired design elements. The Master Grand Date Retrograde represents the collection's most technically ambitious piece to date, bridging the gap between the classical 1975 aesthetic and the brand's renowned Masterpiece complications.

The Retrograde Legacy: More Than 25 Years of Specialization

Maurice Lacroix's relationship with retrograde complications spans more than a quarter-century, beginning with early Masterpiece models in the 1990s. The brand's first significant retrograde piece, the Calendar Retrograde, debuted in 1999, followed by the Double Retrograde in 2002. These early efforts established the foundation for what would become a defining characteristic of the Maurice Lacroix identity.

Retrograde complications, while not as widely appreciated as perpetual calendars or minute repeaters, represent a fascinating intersection of mechanical ingenuity and visual drama. Unlike traditional hands that rotate continuously, retrograde indicators sweep across an arc before instantly snapping back to their starting position—a mechanical ballet that never fails to captivate.

The new 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde marks the introduction of Maurice Lacroix's 26th Masterpiece calibre, the ML302, which serves as a direct descendant of those pioneering retrograde movements from the late 1990s and early 2000s.

Technical Specifications and Movement Architecture

At the heart of the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde lies the calibre ML302, a sophisticated construction that combines a reliable Swiss base movement with Maurice Lacroix's proprietary complication module. The foundation is provided by a Sellita SW200-1, a robust automatic movement operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) with a 38-hour power reserve.

What sets this watch apart is not the base movement—which is widely used throughout the industry—but rather the complex display module that Maurice Lacroix has developed to sit atop it. This module orchestrates both the grand date indication at 12 o'clock and the retrograde weekday display at 6 o'clock, while simultaneously providing the skeletonized visual access that makes the watch so compelling.

The grand date complication utilizes two separate discs to display the tens and units, a system that allows for larger, more legible numerals than traditional single-disc date displays. In the final production version, these numerals appear in white (early prototypes featured black numerals), creating strong contrast against the rhodium-treated movement components visible beneath.

The retrograde weekday indication employs a blued steel hand that sweeps across an arc marked by an sapphire disc. The mechanism driving this complication is fully visible through the skeletonized dial, allowing observers to witness the precise moment when the hand completes its weekly journey and snaps back to Sunday.

Design Philosophy: Transparency as Theater

Perhaps the most striking aspect of the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde is its commitment to transparency. Unlike traditional skeletonized watches that often prioritize decorative flourishes over functional clarity, this Maurice Lacroix takes a more architectural approach to openworking.

The dial construction reveals the underside of the mainplate, which has been treated with a sandblasted finish and black rhodium coating. This dark foundation serves as a stage upon which the various complications perform, while straight-brushed rhodium-plated bridges with sharp triangular profiles add geometric contrast and visual depth.

The time display is handled by trapeze-style hour and minute hands finished in rhodium and filled with white Super-LumiNova for legibility in low-light conditions. A rhodium seconds hand provides additional functionality, while the blued retrograde hand adds a splash of color that draws the eye to the weekday complication.

This approach to skeletonization serves a dual purpose: it showcases the mechanical complexity of the complications while maintaining the essential readability that any practical timepiece must possess. The result is a watch that functions as both a reliable daily companion and a conversation piece.

Case and Construction

The 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde is housed in a 42mm stainless steel case that measures 12.75mm in thickness—dimensions that place it squarely in contemporary dress watch territory. The case construction employs a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, creating visual interest without overwhelming the overall design.

A box-shaped sapphire crystal provides protection for the dial while adding optical depth to the skeletonized display. The caseback features a sapphire crystal window, allowing observation of the movement's reverse side and the automatic rotor's operation.

Water resistance is rated to 50 meters, appropriate for a dress watch of this caliber. Two correctors integrated into the case allow for independent adjustment of the date and retrograde weekday displays, ensuring that both complications can be set accurately without affecting the timekeeping function.

The watch is fitted with a black leather strap featuring an embossed alligator pattern and Maurice Lacroix's EasyChange system, which allows for tool-free strap replacement. A stainless steel butterfly buckle completes the package.

Market Position and Value Proposition

Priced at CHF 6,950 (approximately EUR 7,950), the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde occupies an interesting position in the luxury watch market. This pricing places it well below comparable complications from more established Swiss brands, while offering a level of mechanical sophistication that exceeds many watches in its price range.

The combination of grand date and retrograde weekday complications, presented through a fully skeletonized display, represents significant value for collectors seeking something beyond standard time-and-date functionality. When compared to similar offerings from brands like Frederique Constant, Montblanc, or even entry-level pieces from Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Maurice Lacroix presents a compelling argument for those drawn to its particular aesthetic and technical approach.

Critical Assessment

The 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde succeeds in several key areas. The skeletonized display is genuinely impressive, offering clear views of both complications in operation while maintaining excellent legibility. The finishing quality, particularly on the movement components visible through the dial, meets the standards expected at this price point.

The retrograde weekday complication, while not as immediately practical as a date display, adds genuine mechanical interest and visual drama. The grand date, with its large, easily readable numerals, provides superior legibility compared to traditional date windows.

However, the watch is not without potential drawbacks. The 42mm case size may prove too large for some wrists, particularly given the dress watch styling. The leather strap, while featuring the convenient EasyChange system, uses an embossed alligator pattern that some may find less appealing than smooth leather or genuine alligator.

Additionally, the reliance on a Sellita base movement, while perfectly functional and reliable, may disappoint those seeking fully in-house calibres at this price point. However, this criticism must be balanced against the complexity of the proprietary complication module that Maurice Lacroix has developed.

Conclusion

The Maurice Lacroix 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde represents a successful synthesis of the brand's historical strengths with contemporary design sensibilities. By combining their signature retrograde expertise with a bold skeletonized presentation, Maurice Lacroix has created a watch that stands apart in an increasingly crowded luxury market.

For collectors seeking a mechanically interesting timepiece that offers genuine value and distinctive character, the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde merits serious consideration. It demonstrates that Maurice Lacroix, now in its sixth decade, continues to find new ways to express its particular vision of Swiss watchmaking excellence.

The watch will be available as part of Maurice Lacroix's permanent collection, ensuring that this latest expression of retrograde artistry will remain accessible to enthusiasts for years to come.